Thursday, January 17, 2013

Knit, Purl....Cha, Cha, Cha



            Over the years my knitting style has evolved.   When I was a beginner at seven years old, I made scarves, blankets for my baby dolls and sometimes a pair of mittens with my mother's help.  For most of my teens and early twenties, I let my needles gather dust, only to pick them up occasionally to make an afghan.  It wasn't until I was in my early thirties that I ever ventured into anything three-dimensional, and that was only after being bored to tears with "knit one, purl one, repeat to the end of the row."
            My first sweater was a boxy mauve mess that I would have been mortified to wear.  Even though I followed the directions and got gauge, I was horrified at how long it took to knit such a hopeless disaster and vowed to never again finish a project that half-way through seemed doomed to failure.  
            Fast forward ten years of experience in learning how to make socks, complicated mittens and adorable hats.  I was perusing a Knit and Style magazine when I came across a fabulous, multi-colored "Cha Cha Jacket."  Reading the instructions, I realized it wasn't hard to make, but it was complicated.  Thus, I set the pattern aside and went back to knitting more socks for another year.  Still, that Cha Cha Jacket intrigued me.  It was a challenge to be met, and whether I could accomplish it or not, I still wanted to see if I had honed my skills enough to attempt it.   I'm happy to say I finished my first Cha Cha Jacket in the winter of 2010 and have since made two more. 
            I wear my Cha Cha jackets often around the house or out and about when I don't mind being frequently stopped by someone who asks, "Did you make that?"   I've learned over the years that knitting in public or wearing an item that blatantly says, "Yes, the woman wearing this made me!" often invites commentary and questions.  (I once taught an entire row of passengers on a flight from Detroit to California how to knit a top-down sock using circular needles.)   The other day I was meeting a friend for a cup of chai and walked into the restaurant wearing my Cha Cha Jacket.  As usual, while I was standing in line, heads turned and someone asked, "Did you knit your coat?"  When I nodded, she said, "I knit, but I could never make that!"
            Since starting Little Lambs for Peace last month, knitters have told me, "They look hard...I don't think I could do it."
            I know how they feel.  I started making toys two years ago and they were tricky at first, but over time and with practice, I've make progress, and isn't that what knitting is all about?  My love of the craft has taught me endurance and patience, the ability to laugh at my many mistakes and the tenacity to challenge myself every once in a while.  Like learning a dance step, knitting something new can be daunting at first, but over time, and with experience, we can all proudly say, "Yes, I made that!"
           
           

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Updated Little Lambs for Peace Pattern






Updated Little Lambs for Peace Pattern


Supplies

Any light worsted weight yarn (I use Caron Simply Soft):
                
*220 yds of MC (main color)      
*100 yds of CC (contrasting color)
*a small amount of soft pink for inner ears
*a small amount of black, brown, gray or pink for accents
*a small amount of any color yarn for collar, or ribbon for a bow or Half Windsor tie                                               

Size 4 US double pointed needles (dpn)
Size 4 US 16" circular needle, optional               
                  
Tapestry needle, polyester fiberfill stuffing, stitch marker, scissors and plastic safety pins


Abbreviations:  (please use YouTube for assistance with these knitting techniques)

k:  knit
p:  purl
m1:  make 1
k2tog:  knit 2 together
p2tog:  purl 2 together
k2tog tbl:  knit 2 together through back loop
St st:  stockinette stitch (K one row, P one row)
kfb:  increase, knitting front and back of stitch
TLst:  twisted loop stitch (k the stitch, leave it on the left needle; pull the loops from the right needle out 2-2.5 inches with your fingers.  Place your finger in the loop and twist the loop until it fold over on itself.  Place the loop on the left needle and k the 2 stitches together.


NOTE:  To watch your little lamb come to life, it will be sewn together as you create it.  Directions are in bold italics.

Body

  • Using MC and dpns, cast on 9 stitches, K one row, then divide evenly on three needles (3 stitches per needle)
  • Round 1:  kfb in each stitch (6 stitches per needle)
  • Round 2:  K
  • Round 3:  kfb in each stitch (12 stitches per needle)
  • Rounds 4-6: k
  • Round 7:  (k2, kfb) repeat to end of the round (16 stitches per needle)
  • Round 8:  k
  • Round 9:  (k3, kfb) repeat to end of the round (20 stitches per needle)
  • Rounds 10 - 12:  k
  • Round 13:  (k4, kfb) repeat to end of the round (24 stitches per needle)
  • Round 14 - 16:  k
  • Round 17:  (k5, kfb) repeat to end of the round (28 stitches per needle)
  • Round 18 - 20:  k
  • Round 21:  (k6, kfb) repeat to end of the round (32 stitches per needle)
  • Place a stitch marker on Round 21; continue on dpns or switch to circular needle and k all round until body measures 3 inches from the stitch marker

Decrease rounds:

  • Round 1:  (k6, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (28 stitches per needle)
  • Round 2:  (k5, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (24 stitches per needle)
  • Rounds 3 - 11: k; change back to dpns on round 11
  • Round 12:  (k4, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (20 stitches per needle)
  • Round 13:  (k3, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (16 stitches per needle)
  • Rounds 14 - 25:  k
  • Round 26:  (k2, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (12 stitches per needle)
  • Thread the tail from the cast on edge and sew hole at the bottom.  Weave in end, then stuff with fiberfill.
  • Round 27:  k
  • Round 28:  (k1, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (8 stitches per needle)
  • Round 29:  k
  • Round 30:  (k2tog) repeat to end of the round (4 stitches per needle)
  • Finish stuffing firmly, gently stretch the neckline to shape.
  • Round 31:  (k1, k2tog, k1) repeat to end of the round (3 stitches per needle)
  • Cut the yarn, leaving a ten inch tail to sew the head on later.  Pull through the remaining 9 stitches and gather to close hole.  Stitch to secure.

Head:

  • Using MC and dpns, cast on 9 stitches, K one row, then divide evenly on three needles (3 stitches per needle)
  • Round 1:  kfb in each stitch (6 stitches per needle)
  • Round 2 - 3:  K
  • Round 4:  kfb in each stitch (12 stitches per needle)
  • Rounds 5-7: k
  • Round 8  (k2, kfb) repeat to end of the round (16 stitches per needle)
  • Round 9:  k
  • Round 10:  (k3, kfb) repeat to end of the round (20 stitches per needle)
  • Thread the tail from the cast on edge and sew hole at the bottom.  Stitch to secure
  • Rounds 11 - 24: k


Decrease rounds:

  • Round 1:  (k3, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (16 stitches per needle)
  • Round 2:  k
  • Round 3:  (k2, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (12 stitches per needle)
  • Rounds 4 - 5Change to CC, then k
  • Round 6:  (k1, k2tog tbl, k6, k2tog, k1) repeat to end of the round (10 stitches per needle)
  • Rounds 7 - 12:  k
  • Round 13:  (k3, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (8 stitches per needle)
  • Stuff firmly, gently stretching to shape muzzle..
  • Rounds 14:  k
  • Round 15:  (k2, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (6 stitches per needle)
  • Round 16:  (k1, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (4 stitches per needle)
  • Finish stuffing firmly.
  • Round 17:  (k1, k2tog, k1) repeat to end of the round (3 stitches per needle)
  • Cut the yarn, leaving a tail to pull through the remaining 9 stitches and gather to close hole.  Stitch to secure.  Weave ends inside head.
  • Using a color of your choice, take a couple of stitches for each eye and nose accent, using photo as a guide.  I gently shape the head to make the muzzle more pronounced.
  • Whipstitch the head to the body using tail from the top of the neck.  I usually go around at least twice to make sure the head is secure.

Legs:  (make 4 pieces)

  • Using MC and dpns, cast on 24 stitches, leaving a ten inch tail.
  • K one row, then divide evenly on three needles (8 stitches per needle)
  • Knit every round until piece measures 5" from the cast on edge
  • Change to CC to begin the hoof:
  • Round 1:  (k1, m1, k6, m1, k1) on each needle (10 stitches per needle)
  • Round 2 - 7:  k
  • Round 8:  p
  • Rounds 9: k
  • Round 10:  (k3, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (8 stitches per needle)
  • Round 11:  (k2, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (6 stitches per needle)
  • Round 12:  k
  • Round 13:  (k1, k2tog) repeat to end of the round (4 stitches per needle)
  • Round 14:  (k1, k2tog, k1) repeat to end of the round (3 stitches per needle)
  • Cut the yarn, leaving a tail to pull through the remaining 9 stitches and gather to close hole.  Stitch to secure.  Weave ends inside hoof.
  • Stuff firmly with fiberfill, then whipstitch the top of the leg closed.  Using the photo as a guide, whipstitch the legs to the body.

Outer Ears:  (make 2 pieces)

  • Beginning at lower edge with MC or CC, leaving a ten inch tail, cast on 10 stitches
  • Beginning with a k row, St st for 4 rows
  • Increase row 1:  k1, m1, k to the last stitch, m1, k1 (12 stitches)
  • Increase row 2:  p
  • Next row:  repeat increase row (14 stitches)
  • Beginning with a p row, continue in St st for 13 rows
  • Decrease row 1:  l1, k2tbl, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1 (12 stitches)
  • Row 2:  p
  • Row 3:  repeat row 1 (10 stitches)
  • Row 4:  p1, p2tog, p to the last 3 stitches, p2tog, p1 (8 stitches)
  • Row 5:  k1, k2tbl, k2, k2tog, k1 (six stitches)
  • Row 6:  p1, p2tog twice, p1 (4 stitches)
  • Row 7:  k2tbl, k2tog (2 stitches)
  • Row 8:  p2tog (1 stitch)
  • Cut the yarn and pull through remaining stitch, then weave into the wrong side of the work at the tip of the ear.
Inner Ears:  (make 2 pieces)

  • Beginning at lower edge with pink yarn, leaving a ten inch tail, cast on 8 stitches
  • Beginning with a k row, St st for 2 rows
  • Increase row 1:  k1, m1, k to the last stitch, m1, k1 (10 stitches)
  • Increase row 2:  p
  • Next row:  repeat increase row (12 stitches)
  • Beginning with a p row, continue in St st for 13 rows
  • Decrease row 1:  k1, k2tbl, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1 (10 stitches)
  • Row 2:  p
  • Row 3:  repeat row 1 (8 stitches)
  • Row 4:  p1, p2tog, p2, p2tog, p1 (6 stitches)
  • Row 5:  k1, k2tbl, k2tog, k1 (4 stitches)
  • Row 6:  p2tog twice (2 stitches)
  • Row 7:  k2tog (1 stitch)
  • Cut the yarn and pull through remaining stitch, then weave into the wrong side of the work at the tip of the ear.

Place inner ear into outer ear, purl sides facing and tips touching.  Pin in place, then using the tail from the inner ear, sew the lower edge in place (there will be two rows of the outer ear still showing), then sew along outside edge of inner ear, tucking the stitches inside the curled edge of the outer ear.  Weave in pink yarn.


Fold the ear in half at the lower end, sew into place and take a few stitches up the inside of the ear until you reach the inner ear.  Whipstitch onto the head, slightly down-turned (see picture for guidance).  Weave in end of yarn inside the head.

Curly Top:

  • Using 2 dpns like straight needles, using MC or CC, cast on 10 stitches
  • Row 1:  TLst in every stitch
  • Row 2: K
  • Repeat rows 1 and 2 four or five times, depending on your preference, ending with row 1
  • Bind off in K
  • Attach the curly top on the head between the ears, attaching the back seam, then taking a few stitches underneath to tack it down securely.

Curly Tail:

  • Using 2 dpns like straight needles, using MC or CC, cast on 6 stitches
  • Row 1:  TLst in every stitch
  • Row 2: K
  • Repeat rows 1 and 2 three times, ending with row 1
  • Bind off in K
  • Fold tail in half then sew it to the back of the lamb between the hind legs, taking a few stitches underneath to tack it down securely.



Optional Collar:

  • Using 2 dpns like straight needles, use any color yarn and cast on 5 stitches
  • Make an I-Cord approx. 9" long
  • Cast off in K, thread the yarn through the remaining stitch and pull tightly.  Weave in end.
  • Fold cast on end of collar approx. 1 - 1.5 inches and tack into place on the collar to make a loop.
  • Place the collar around the lamb and loop into place.
  • You can also use a small piece of ribbon and make a little bow tie.

Sunday, January 6, 2013

Black Sheep Get a Bad Rap



            I was a knitter before it was cool and celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker and Sandra Bullock made it fashionable to make your own scarves and socks.  I began practicing yoga before it became a western phenomena, and was often considered to be a novelty or a nut.   I've started my life over many times as an adult, and with each recreation, moved through it by myself with no established template of how to go about it while being single in a family oriented society. 
            Yes, I've been a black sheep.  How about you?
            While I was working on the latest Little Lamb (see Mr. Spiffy above), the thought often crossed my mind, "Why is it a black sheep that is treated with condescension?"  In 2009 I wrote an article about the difficulty shelters have in adopting out black animals, cats in particular.  In most breeds of sheep, the white gene is dominant, so black lambs are very rare, and in my mind, a precious commodity.  "Baa Baa Black Sheep," a popular nursery school song, describes the black sheep saying it has "three bags full."  This particular rhyme was in response to the wool tax that was present in 1731 and beyond.  Black wool was considered to be of higher value because it did not have to be dyed before use, yet another example of a black sheep's worth.
            Black sheep may be rare, but they are precious and to be respected for their individuality and unique gifts they bring to the world.  When I finished Mr. Spiffy, it didn't seem right to give him a collar or a bow tie like the others before him.  With his striking blue eyes (thanks to the suggestion of a few of my yoga friends), he needed something distinctive, thus he's the first Little Lamb for Peace to sport a Half Windsor knot.   I'm sure many more will follow in his hoof-steps. 
            I'm delighted that Little Lambs for Peace now has its own page on Facebook.  I look forward to hearing from you and seeing your own beautiful creations.  Come join our flock soon!